Preventive Maintenance Can Extend Your Water Heater’s Valuable Life… Verify Yours Right now!

Your water heater is in all probability the most significant element of your houses plumbing system. A appropriately maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or much more. But, a heater not correctly maintained can fail in four to six years. The condition of the drinking water in your region and the location of the heater in your home are out of your handle, but appropriate maintenance of the heater and your plumbing program is essential to heater longevity and security.

This report offers you a list of products to verify for each tank form and tankless water heaters. As water heater replacement Buena Park go via the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a qualified, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!

Tank Variety Water Heater Upkeep:

Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)

The vent need to be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent really should go generally “up and out” the ceiling.
Exactly where is passes via the exterior wall, the vent ought to be double-walled.
Vent sections must be screwed collectively with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Undesirable vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!

Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is made to avert the heater from exploding if the water stress or temperature exceeds secure limits.

Pull up the deal with on the valve and water should flow out and stop when you let go of the handle.
The T&P valve has a drain line that should go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your dwelling.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, high water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.

Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)

Water stress over 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: A single giveaway that your have higher water stress is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.

Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings

Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!

Temperature Handle

Inspect the heater temperature control dial to insure its set at the right water temperature.
The ideal water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit significantly increases scalding risk, energy use, and sediment build-up in the bottom of the heater!

Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)

Turn the gas valve manage to “pilot position”.
Take away the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve control back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber means drafting issues, combustion problems, fume issues, and a fire hazard!

Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)

Make confident the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will hold the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater could have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the will need for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.

Drain Valve

Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan

If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it must have a drain pan.
The drain pan should be plumbed to the outdoors of your property.
Inspect the condition of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outside.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)

Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the excellent of the air is crucial.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored near a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.

Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to stop rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to protect the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode over time and get applied up via an electrolytic method.

Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, need to be performed by a educated, skilled service technician.

Sediment Develop-up-Sediment is created when really hard water is heated. The make-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can cause the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and trigger the recirculating pump to stick until it burns out. Sediment build-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is triggered by small amounts of water below the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.

Note: Sediment build-up can reduce the energy efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!

Tankless Water Heater Upkeep:

Flushing-Most tankless water heater producers suggest flushing the whole unit every 6 months to 1 year based upon the water high-quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit regularly removes any mineral deposits (ordinarily calcium or lime) that may perhaps have built up inside the boilers. Suppliers advise using a utility pump to circulate three or four gallons of vinegar or one more low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.